~try vid lak~

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How to Photograph Silhouettes in 8 Easy Steps

anda tau tak Silhouettes neh ape?

"A silhouette is the image of a person, an object or scene consisting of the outline and a featureless interior, with the silhouetted object usually being black. Traditionally, a silhouette is a form of artwork, the term originating in the 18th century and applied to portraits or other pictorial representations cut from thin black card.Silhouette images may be created in any artistic media, but the tradition of cutting portraits from black card has continued into the 21st century."

 neh diambil dari wikipedia...

"Silhouettes ialah imej seseorang, objek atau kejadian yang terdiri daripadamenggariskan dan pedalaman tanpa sifat, dengan objek silhouetted biasanya dihitam. Secara tradisinya, bayang adalah satu bentuk seni, istilah yang berasal dariabad ke-18 dan digunakan untuk potret atau lain-lain perwakilan bergambardipotong daripada imej card.Silhouette nipis hitam boleh diwujudkan di mana-mana media seni, tetapi tradisi memotong potret dari kad hitam terus ke dalam abad ke-21"

ahahah.. da di translate mengunakan google translater kepada mana2 yg x paham englesh...


How to Photograph Silhouettes in 8 Easy Steps... these are the step to do it..

1. Choose a Strong Subject

Almost any object can be made into a silhouette, however some are better than others. Choose something with a strong and recognizable shape that will be interesting enough in its two dimensional form to hold the interest of those viewing your image. Silhouettes can’t draw on the colors, textures and tones of subjects to make them appealing – so the shape needs to be distinct.

 

2. Turn off your Flash

If you have your camera in automatic mode your camera will probably want to use its flash which will ruin the silhouette. Basically you want as little light on the front of your subject as possible – so the flash has to go (basic – but I’ve seen a few attempted silhouette shots with the flash firing).

 

3. Get Your Light Right

When it comes to lighting your subject you’ll need to throw out a lot of what you’ve learnt about normal photography and think a little backwards. Instead of lighting the front of your subject, in silhouettes you need to ensure that there is more light shining from the background than the foreground of your shot – or to put it another way – you want to light the back of your subject rather than the front. The perfect light for this is placing your subject in front of a sunset or sunrise – but really any bright light will be able to do the trick.

 

4. Frame your image

Frame your shot so you are shooting with your subject in front of a nice plain, but bright background. Usually the best backgrounds will be a bright cloudless sky with the sun setting. You want to position the brightest light source behind your subject (either so that they hide it or so that its in the background somewhere).

 

5. Make silhouetted shapes distinct and uncluttered

If there is more than one shape or object in the image that you’re attempting to silhouette, try to keep them separated. ie if you are silhouetting a tree and a person don’t have the person stand in front of the tree or even leaning on it as it will merge them into one shape and as a result your viewers could be confused about what the shape is.

Also when framing you’ll probably want to photograph silhouetted people as profiles rather than looking straight on. This means that more of their features (nose, mouth, eyes) are outlined and they are more likely to be recognized.

 

6. In Auto Mode

 

Most modern digital cameras have automatic metering which are pretty good at sensing how to expose a photograph so that everything is well lit. The problem with this is that most cameras are so smart that they will light up your subject instead of underexposing it to get a silhouette so you need to trick it. Most cameras work out the exposure levels in auto mode when you push your shutter half way down (at the same time that they focus). So point your camera at the brightest part of your picture and then press the shutter halfway down (don’t let go). Then move your camera back to frame your shot with the subject where you want it and then finish taking the shot. With most digital cameras this will result in a silhouetted subject. In effect what you’re doing is tricking your camera into thinking that the bright part of the image is the mid tone of it so that anything darker than it will be exposed as a nice dark shadow.

Some digital cameras also have ’spot’ or ‘centered’ metering modes that you can switch on which helps with the above technique as they will set the metering on the central spot of your frame rather than multiple spots. This means you can accurately tell your camera exactly which bit of the bright background you want it to set the exposure on.

 

7. Manual Mode

If this technique doesn’t work and your camera has controls to allow manual exposure or exposure compensation you might like to try some of your own settings. The beauty of digital is that you can experiment to your hearts content until you get the result you’re after.

A simple way to start using manual mode is to look at the shutter speed and aperture that it suggests in automatic mode and to start from there. If in auto mode your subject is too light (ie you need to make it darker) stop down the shutter speed a stop or two and see what impact that has. Use the ‘bracketing’ technique that I described in my previous tip on sunrises and sunsets to get a variety of shots at slightly different exposures.

 

8. Focusing

In most cases you’ll want the subject which is silhouetted to be the thing that is in focus most crisply. This can mean that the process described in point 4 can be a little tricky as pushing your shutter half way down to get the metering right also means that you’ll focus on that spot in the background. To get around this you can use two strategies. Firstly if your camera has manual focusing you might want to try that. Pre focus your shot before you meter your shot.

The other strategy is to use Aperture to maximize your depth of field (the amount of your image that is in focus). Set a small aperture (ie a larger number) to increase the depth of field – this means you’re more likely to have a sharper foreground and background in your shots.

One last tip on Silhouettes – while a total silhouette with a nice crisp and black subject can be a powerful shot, also consider the partial silhouette where some detail of your subject is left. Sometimes a touch of light on them makes them slightly more three dimensional and ‘real’. This is the beauty of bracketing your shots as it will leave you with total and partial silhouettes to choose form.

by Darren Rowse



contoh pic adalah spt ne:http://www.google.com.my/search?q=silhouette+photography&hl=en&biw=1270&bih=660&prmd=ivns&source=lnms&tbm=isch&ei=UuYDTvLLBcbKrAfdvYCgDA&sa=X&oi=mode_link&ct=mode&cd=2&sqi=2&ved=0CBYQ_AUoAQ



selamat beramal.... 

danbo

salam..
ari neh.. battery low sangat2  x tau y.. ada rasa nak demam.. n asyik tido jer.. tp x per.. ada peneman.. (^^,).. nama dia "danbo" Danbo: The Emotionless Toy

huhu... bnyk masa terbuang cam tuh dari dok berFB.. ada la keje sket memotong kertas+gam+assamble nyer... neh adalah dari seni  paper figurines ....

kepada kanak-kanak adik-adik yg nak wat menda neh.. pastikan mendapat kebenaran ibubapa n pertolongan diorang utk memotong kertas.. coz pisau adalah tajam...

ada bnyk lagi figure yg leh di download dari web site ne : http://www.cubeecraft.com/

danbo neh ada member.. namanya danbi.. huuh.. neh photoshoot dorang...

F.I.N

2day

salam...
lama x update ngan perkara baru.. so.. x tau nk wat ape.. skrg da cuti dari 3P.. so.. sib baik ada anak buah blk kg.. leh le mengisi masa terluang...

 

td start kul 9.++ ujan lak.. dok kat luar umah.. dapat nengok keindahan alam 

 

F.I.N

How to take better product shots

source : http://www.ephotozine.com/article/how-to-take-better-product-shots-10439

Product photography may not seem like the most exciting line of work but it's a form that society most definitely needs. From internet auction sites to advertising billboards - product photography features on them all. A photograph can help you sell your old junk on the internet or it can make a company millions of pounds and the key to this is the perfect picture. Product photography can be hard. You have to know how to position the product and light it to make it look its best. One man that knows how to do this is Jonathan Beer. He's the FEP European commercial photographer of the year and here he shares some of his tips for perfect product photography.

Jonathan Beer is a Manchester based photographer who specialises in product and still life photography. His website says he's a photographer with an obsession for detail and a pursuit of quality that surpasses the norm which makes him the perfect man to teach us about product photography.

"I take pride in my work. I spend around 6 hours on one shot and usually do one product a day. It's about taking you're time and getting everything right. I probably spend the same amount of time on an iron as a car photographer does on a car," said Jonathan.

You don't have to replicate his shooting patterns if you're only photographing products to sell on an internet site. But paying attention to the way he lights products would be a good idea.

"You need to pay attention to lighting," explained Jonathan. "I put every ounce of knowledge I have about lighting into what I do."

Soft lighting is best for product photography and Jonathan creates this in a studio.

"The lighting is completely unique and set-up for that product. If I'm shooting more than one product in a day I will take down all the lights for each separate product and start from scratch. By doing this I can set the lights exactly how they need to be and achieve the best results."

Jonathan uses eight to ten flash heads on one product and he sets them all to do a particular job. He prefers this to using harsh large lights and reflectors as he has more control over the smaller lights. All the flashes are also placed very close to the product and are set to work to a tenth of a stop.

"Everything has to be balanced up perfectly," said Jonathan.

If you don't have access to a studio a photo light tent can be used instead. They let you create your own portable, table-top lighting studio at home. Camera flash can be too harsh for product photography and a light tent can help soften the light and reduce shadows and reflections.

Jonathan believes the best way to photograph the product is by starting with it as a whole object and finishing with little bits of detail such as buttons.

"I always do the main shots first then focus on the detail because if the lighting is right for the whole product it will work for the detail too."

A tripod is a tool a product photographer shouldn't be with out. Motion blur isn't a good look for an iron so using a good tripod to keep the camera steady is a must.

"If the product looks like it's tilting the eye will pick it up," explained Jonathan.

When selling products the way it looks is the key and angle is all important for this. You need to show the products best side and all the features it has to make it unique. 

"There isn't one particular angle to shoot all products at. You have to focus on the product you want to sell and see how it can look its best. Hair-dryers for example can have special nozzles or cool buttons," said Jonathan. "If you focus on what you think are the main selling points then the angles become obvious."

If you're shooting commercially then the brand manager or designer will usually tell you how to angle the product but if you're working on your own you can always get inspiration from magazines and adverts.

"The angle of the product is usually dictated by what's normal for the market. Irons are always photographed with the nose/front pointing to the left slightly, that is unless they have a unique selling point."

Another great tip is to clean the product - you wont sell anything that looks like you dragged it out from under the stairs. 

"Remember to pay real attention to detail and really look at what you're doing," suggested Jonathan.

He also believes that some product photographers make the wrong choices when it comes to lenses: "Many people use lenses that are too wide and it can make the photograph look poor. If you pull back slightly the product will look ten times better."

No matter how much attention you pay to angle and lighting the image may not turn out how you imagined and editing software will often be needed.

You can crop, sharpen, change the exposure and do anything else you want to do at the click of a mouse button.

"Post-production work is usually a must for this sort of work. I usually have quite a lot of work to do after I have taken the photograph as I'm usually working with prototypes. The prototypes leave the image looking a little rough and often the colour of the products and the texture will need altering."

Sometimes the products Jonathan works with are so bad he shoots them in black and white and colours them by hand after.  But unless you're photographing prototypes I'm sure you wont have this problem.

"Just remember that everything is geared towards getting the best picture possible. I use the lowest ISO, the best lenses I can find and I ensure the exposure is perfect before I take the shot. Remember you're trying to sell a product you have to make it look perfect."

Visit Jonathan Beer to see more of his work.

my brother enggement

 

20 Rules in office

1. Rule 1. - The Boss is always right.

2. Rule 2. - If the Boss is wrong, see rule 1.

3. Those who work get more work. Others get pay, perks, and promotions.

4. Ph.D. stands for "Pull Him Down". The more intelligent a person, the more hardworking a person, the more committed a person; the more number of persons are engaged in pulling that person down.

5. If you are good, you will get all the work. If you are really good, you will get out of it.

6.. When the Bosses talk about improving productivity, they are never talking about themselves.

7. It doesn't matter what you do, it only matters what you say you've done and what you are going to do.

8. A pat on the back is only a few centimeters from a kick in the butt.

9. Don't be irreplaceable. If you can't be replaced, you can't be promoted.

10. The more crap you put up with, the more crap you are going to get.

11. If at first you don't succeed, try again. Then quit. No use being a damn fool about it...

12. When you don't know what to do, walk fast and look worried.

13.. Following the rules will not get the job done.

14. If it weren't for the last minute, nothing would get done.

15. Everything can be filed under "Miscellaneous" .

16. No matter how much you do, you never do enough.

17. You can do any amount of work provided it isn't the work you are supposed to be doing.

18. In order to get a promotion, you need not necessarily know your job.

19. In order to get a promotion, you only need to pretend that you know your job.

20. The last person that quit or was fired will be held responsible for everything that goes wrong.

~noting 2 do~

Salam...

ape kabor semua... selamat sejahtera hendaknye... huhu.. da berSesawang la blog neh.. hhuhu...lama x update... so.. guys.. news is.. i have finish my 3p.. with ENSA & ENSS & ECSA/LPT cert... huhu... try search ECSA/LPT dalam net.. mesti anda terkejut..

 

with this... my nightmare is on.. so bored.... did't know wat to do, to fill the blank until end of 3 month holiday..